Recent Water Shot from Some Mid Summer Swell

Being at a loose end on the day of probaly the best swell to hit The Gower Coast this summer I set about documenting this occasion. Getting up at 0350 and returning home at 2300, three water shoots one land shoot and a surf at various locations I felt like I had just run a full kit BFT the following morning. This is a shot of Chris "Frenchie" French taking time out from delivering our daily bread. Chris is one of The Gowers veteran short boarders with an illustrious career in competition surfing with some notable trophies on his fireplace a bottom turn likened to Tom Curren and can often be seen pulling in at The Reefs.